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Feature Article April 29

Feature Article September 16, 2004

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Smut has some redeeming qualities

by Steev Morgan

With this cool, damp weather, our modest little vegetable garden is even more humble than it might have been. We tend it just the same though, gleaning what little morsels we can, a few beans, tomatoes, some huge cabbages. We are still pretty new to the game so there are always some surprises.

The corn has not been great, but I went looking for ripe ears the other day and discovered the dampness had fostered a real nasty growth on one big cob. Distended, gray-blue kernels like ghostly babies fingers tangled in the silky hairs. When I touched it a digit dropped off revealing the blackness within. Scary!

It was a fungus called "corn smut" (Ustilago maydis), probably the bane of many corn farmers in weather like this. After I regained my composure, and while I was trying to gross out the kids with the mutant cob, my lovely wife reminded me that this was probably the very same fungus we had sampled in fine restaurants in Mexico. There it is treasured as a delicacy known by its ancient Aztec name "Huitlacoche"(it sounds a bit like "wit la coach, eh"). You can buy it in cans at Mexican specialty shops.

A quick google of the Web confirmed this and gave the additional fact that the Aztec name translates as "raven's excrement". Too much information perhaps, but all of a sudden "corn smut" didn't seem like such a bad name after all, and it almost sounds like fun compared to the French "goitre du mais".

Of course I had resolved to eat it! Now, if you are grossed out at this point you probably haven't put a lot of thought into what your regular mushrooms grow on. Online recipes suggested sauting with onions, garlic and chilies to fill tortillas or tamales (corn dumplings). These "Mexican truffles" give a unique rich subtle mushroom-y flavour and this was my first chance to taste them fresh, I thought more than a taco was in order!

I was inspired by the optimism of the rampant squashes that are making the best of a bad situation and escaping from our composter. The result was the tasty appetizer below. It was a bit labour intensive, but I felt like I was turning lead into gold.

Oro del Filosofo(serves 4) (Night before) 1/2 red. Onion, chopped fine 3 cloves of garlic, chopped fine Several sprigs of fresh oregano 1 small fresh hot pepper (If your pepper is not hot enough supplement with whatever you've got. We used a dried, smoked pepper, soaked overnight in vinegar and oil, and then chopped) Approx. 1.5 - 2 c. huitlacoche (gently cut from cob and separated gently from silk and corn)

Chop onions and garlic and sautuntil translucent. Toss in peppers and oregano, as well as coarsely chopped huitlacoche (some other fungus would also work). Let mixture cool overnight.

(Day of) 1 egg 2 Tbsp. of soft goat cheese (or cream cheese or other soft cheese) 1/2 c. cornstarch 1 t. baking powder 1/2 c. flour (non-wheat if desired) 3 t. milk (non-dairy, if desired) Salt, to taste 4 large fresh squash blossoms stems attached (picked the morning of serving, when open.) Sufficient oil to float the stuffed blossoms

In morning, pick squash blossoms. Stir goat cheese in with huitlacoche mixture. Spoon mixture into squash blossoms. Fold tips of blossoms over into a pear shaped package. Scramble egg with milk. Mix cornstarch, baking powder, salt and flour in shaking bag. Gently roll stuffed squash blossoms in egg mixture, and then fluff them gently in flour mixture. Set on drying rack (like a cookie rack).

Let sit for 10 minutes, then repeat; Keep cool until ready to serve, gently turning, dusting with flour as egg soaks through. Just before serving make sure oil is good and hot. Deep-fry one at a time until golden-brown, turning regularly. Dry on rack or paper towel for 5-7 minutes, serve hot.

With the participation of the Government of Canada